Category — Engrave-A-Crete Tools

You asked, we listened.

Steve has been slaving away for weeks on end, missing meals, ingoring his children and letting his house fall into disrepair…

So without further adieu, we would like to formally introduce the New & Improved, the Bigger & Better, the Reformulated & Repackaged:

Template Gallery

You and your customers will find many new and useful features such as keyword search to help you locate what design you’re looking for.

The ability to email a design to your customer, or have them email a design to you, all with the click of a button.

You will have the ability to create a custom album to compate several designs one at a time, side by side, and many more features.

If you have any suggestions on how to improve the gallery, do not hesitate to contact Steve, The Template Master at 1-800-884-2114 x107, or email him at steve@engraveacrete.com.

You can get to the new gallery by clicking on “Templates” in the “Products” menu of the main Engrave-A-Crete site, or by clicking on the “Templates” link in the menu of the KaleidoCrete website.

Also included in the gallery are Sandroid templates.

This is a continuation (Part 6) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

In this video, you learn to cut brick patterns into existing concrete.

This is part 11 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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Soldier courses are used in circular brick patterns to control the overall maximum brick length and to enhance visual appeal. A soldier course may be placed in the design anywhere. Typically, when close in to the center pivot, a soldier course should be inserted each six to eight brick rows. As you get farther away from the center pivot, a soldier course can be added after every 8-12 brick rows.

To make space for a 12 inch brick soldier course, index out three holes. Insert the T pin and tighten the star knob. Additionally, before beginning this cut, visually check that the engraver is correctly located 12 inches away from the last groove. Generally, complete all of the long bed cuts before proceeding to the head cuts.

Let’s get set up to make head joint cuts. Disconnect the engraver from the power. Remove the clamp lock. Disconnect the riser block from the engraver. Rotate the engraver 90 degrees and reattach the riser block.

To give the connecting bar stabilizer room to float, slide the riser block up about 1/8 inch just before tightening the star knob. Change the stroke length of the primary connecting bar to make a 12 inch soldier course by adjusting the stop collars that are located on the shaft inside the primary connecting bar.

Using the 9/64 inch hex T handle, loosen the two collars. Do not put your fingers in the slots; they could get pinched. Push the engraver out until the collars contact the rear collar. Re-tighten the screws.

Visually check to see that the blade will cut exactly between the long bed cuts. In the front end rear, there should be about a 1/8 inch gap between the blade and the far sides of the bed cuts.

Initially, it is better to have the gap too wide. A wide gap will produce an undercut, which is much better than an over-cut. Later, after making some cuts, the stop collars can be dialed in exactly as needed.

Using the second hole from the top of the plunger block, attach the rigid pointer system. Position the engraver over the soldier course space. As a point of reference, the contour following wheel axle is in line with the motor spindle, which is also the center of the blade.

Visually, when the contour following wheel is near the inner bed cut, it is close to the starting point of the head cuts. Clip a reminder flag to the four inch soldier course pointer. Steady the engraver by holding your feet against the stabilizer wheels.

Start the cut by pressing down on the engraver handlebar. Push the engraver out to the end of the stroke. At the end of the stroke, let up on the handlebar. The blade automatically springs out of the cut.

Pull the engraver backwards. Move the engraver to the right. Aim the four inch soldier course pointer at the groove you just made. Steady the engraver with your feet. Make another cutting cycle. Press down, push out, let up, pull back, move to the right.

When aiming at a cut line with a pointer, you should be centered over the engraver. If you alter the viewing angle, the width of the brick will change.

As you may have already figured out, if we continue cutting around the circle, the last brick will likely be an odd size. To visually decrease the impact of multiple odd sized bricks, we will determine a delaying point measurement.

Make a minimum of nine cuts, a total of eight bricks. Measure the distance from the point of the top arc across eight bricks to the other point of the arc. This distance is called the cord length, or simply, the cord. We use the cord length of eight bricks as a delaying point measurement to simplify the calculation.

The number eight is divisible to one by dividing it in half three times. Transfer that measurement to the left side of the bricks. This is called the delaying point. To remind yourself of the delaying point being there, lay something on it.

Continue cutting. Delay engraving at the delaying point marker. Complete whichever cut will be the closest to the delaying point. It does not matter if the last cut falls before or after the delaying point mark.

It does, however, determine whether the remaining bricks are going to be slightly wider or narrower than the other bricks in that soldier course. Measure and divide the remaining space in half. Divide those two halves in half. Then, divide those four sections in half again.

Move the pointer flag to the center pointer. Finish the remainder of the cutting by pointing to the marks using the center pointer. In a circular or arcuate pattern, insert soldier courses as often as you like, but generally, put one in at least every 8 to 12 brick courses.

We have several specials going on right now on used equipment.

For the complete list go to our specials page on the website.

Included in the specials are:

Used 2006 Super Compact 2500M

Used 2006 Mongoose Pro Pack & KaleidoCrete Package

2005 14′ Trailer Package (Black Graphics Package)

2006 14′ Trailer Package (Chrome Graphics Package)

New Never Used 2008 Mongoose Pro Pack & KaleidoCrete Package

For more information, or to purchase, please call 1-800-884-2114.

This is a continuation (Part 4) of an introduction to the Super Compact — including it’s capabilities.

This is part 9 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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The cutting rate on most concrete is between 15 to 30 feet per minute. If an undercut occurs, do not try to recut the groove. It could make a costly mistake. It is much easier to fix an undercut in other ways. When track free engraving, it is helpful to have an assistant hold the vacuum hose and cord. Do not try to drag hoses and cords along with the engraver. If operating alone, try taping or bungee-cording the hose and the cord to your leg, or throw the cords over your shoulder.

Long sweeping free form arcs and serpentine grooves are relatively easy to do. Serpentine grooves with short radiuses can be difficult to accurately produce. Draw the proposed line to be cut.

When a groove is to be parallel with the edge of the slab edge, use the edge marker tool. When a groove is to meander across the floor, a piece of PVC pipe or a strip of wood makes a nice lofting tool.

Set up the engraver for track-free cutting. Use the short axles and single wheels. Do not use the multi directional wheels for serpentine cutting unless you prefer the peculiar type of cut it will produce. Put a lot of downward pressure on the engraver to keep the wheels from skidding sideways in the turns.

Forward progress must be maintained. Once you begin the cut, do not stop. If forward progress stops, any attempt to restart the cut will create an ugly bobble or a kink in the groove. Use your legs or body to apply sideways pressure and torque the engraver to make the curves.

Due to the blade being six inches behind the pointer, the sharper the curve, the further the pointer will be off the drawn line. Practice this procedure before applying it.

Whenever possible, start on the straight cut that leads into a curve. It makes alignment much easier. Make several trial runs at making serpentine patterns before turning on the motor.

To purchase the complete DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving -The Basics, call 1-800-884-2114, or purchase on-line at Concrete Stain & Supply.

Introducing the all new vaccuum attachment for the KaleidoCrete Barracuda.

Now you can peck away at concrete nearly dust-free.

Simply attach the nozzle and bracket, attach a hose from your vacuum and you’re ready to go.

This makes a great compliment to the Barracuda Stand-up Conversion Kit.

For more information, or to purchase, call 1-800-884-2114.