Category — Engrave-A-Crete Tools

This is an introduction to using multiple templates with the KaleidoCrete System.

In this video, decorating with multiple template,?? & cleaning up template shadows is demonstrated.

This is part 20 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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Many template designs have bridges. Bridges are small sections of plastic left in the template to hold the design together. After initial engraving, the shadows from the bridges must be removed. To reduce the chances of frayed edges, angle the Wasp slightly toward the area to be removed. Also taking the time to clean up jagged edges produces a nice finished look.

Double template sets are useful for quick bridge shadow removal, using either the Shark or the Barracuda. The first template is the main design containing the normal bridges. After engraving with the first template, align the second template with the design for quick and easy bridge removal. Consider double template sets when you have to cut the same design repeatedly. Double template sets can save you time and money.

Large templates are often produced in multiple sections for easier handling and transportation. Multi-piece templates are spliced together with butterflies. As with single templates, place the multi piece template on the slab and align the template to the exact position desired. After you are satisfied that the template is correctly placed, lightly spray gray primer to define areas for color separation and to assist with realignment of the template. Do not use brightly colored paint. Some will likely remain after cutting is completed and will detract from the appearance.

Remember, the image within your template may not be centered within the plastic. Some repeating geometrical designs can be built as half or quarter templates. In these cases, you would merely repeat the half or quarter to form a full image. Using a partial design can save dollars on templates, but more work and complexity is created on the job site.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

This is an introduction to using single templates with the KaleidoCrete System.

In this video, decorating with a single template,?? & cleaning up with the Wasp is demonstrated.

This is part 19 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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Place the template on the slab and align the pattern to the exact position desired. It is often helpful to trace the design on the concrete to ensure the final position of your design is visually pleasing and to assist with the realignment if the template ever moves.

Also remember the image within the template may not be centered within the plastic. Always measure twice or more, and cut once.

When cutting with the Shark or Barracuda, first place all the impacting teeth inside the template opening of the design. Apply light downward pressure, and then squeeze the trigger.

If you start the tool prior to placing the impactors inside the template opening, you may damage the template, limit the number of times it can be used, and increase the length of time needed to complete the project.

To obtain a nice, crisp cut along the template edge, slightly angle the tool toward the side of the template opening. It is important to continuously move the tool during the engraving process.

Generally, use a circular motion in large areas. Narrow openings will only allow you to make back and forth linear motions.

As you are moving the tool within the template opening, visually inspect that the bottom of the cut is even and to the required depth. Failure to continuously move the tool will result in an uneven cut and unsightly depressions.

Using The Wasp

Turn the Wasp on and off by twisting the valve body. Sometimes the Wasp needs a jump start. Twist the valve until you feel air coming from the tip. Tap the stinger into an engraved area to start the pecking action.

When using the Wasp, treat the tool like a sharp pencil. Pressing on the stinger sideways too hard is likely to break it. Allow the Wasp to do the work by applying the least amount of pressure as possible.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

This is an introduction to the KaleidoCrete System.

In this video, you are introduced to the system and the tools that comprise it: the Shark, the Barracuda & the Wasp.

This is part 18 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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The Kaleidocrete System is an innovative concrete engraving system which allows you to reproduce nearly any design in any scale in existing concrete.

You or your customer’s imagination is the only limit to what can be created with the Kaleidocrete System.

As an example, you can easily reproduce corporate logos, numbers, or custom design graphics.

Kaleidocrete templates are manufactured for the design you want to reproduce.

The templates are constructed from one half inch thick durable plastic panels.

Using templates as patterns to create exacting designs, the Shark, Barracuda, and Wasp tools rapidly peck at the concrete surface, chipping away until you reach the desired depth.

Kaleidocrete tools are air powered and require a compressor that will maintain 12 CFM at 90 PSI.

During this segment, we will be demonstrating the Shark, the Barracuda, the Wasp, and various Kaleidocrete template sets.

The Kaleidocrete system tools have specific purposes. The Shark has 64 impact cutting teeth and is used for engraving designs that have large open areas greater than three eighths of an inch. The Barracuda has 29 impact cutting teeth and is used for engraving areas where the template space is under three eights of an inch. The Wasp, is used for fine detail engraving, free handwork, and is efficient in design, cleanup and touchup.

All Engrave A Crete tools are designed with safety as the number one priority. Just like any other tool, it is essential that you use and wear all the appropriate safety equipment including by not limited to eye, ear, and respiratory protection. When making adjustments or changing components of the engraving equipment, you must disconnect and unplug the tool from the power source.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

This is a continuation (Part 10) of an introduction to the Super Compact ??? including it???s capabilities.

In this video, you learn to cut the 2nd & 3rd course of bricks in a linear brick pattern using the Super Compact Cobra and a tracking system.

This is part 15 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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When engraving straight bricks on a large area, the head joints can have a tendency to drift. Factors that cause a drift can be: a pointer that is slightly off, or if the operator views the pointer from differing angles. If the pointer happened to be off 1 16th of an inch, after 16 rows, your head joints would be off by one inch.

To avoid the drift, after engraving the first row of bricks, snap parallel chalk lines down the length of the slab. These lines should serve as a good reference to the proper cut of every second row. Make your cuts on chalk lines on odd numbered rows to minimize drift. This will keep your head joints lined up nicely and give a clean look to your straight bricks.

To cut the second brick course, index the engraver towards the linear rail to set the engraver up for the second row. Move the pointer flag to the second pointer and aim the second pointer at the first course.

To cut the third brick course, index the engraver in toward the rail. Pin it. Snug the knobs. The head cuts of the third course of bricks are centered on the first course. Aim the center pointer at the grout lines on the first row. Notice that all pointers, so far, have aimed at the cuts in row number one.

On the fourth and consecutive courses, aim the center pointer at the grooves that are two courses away from the row being cut.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.

This is a continuation (Part 9) of an introduction to the Super Compact ??? including it???s capabilities.

In this video, you learn to cut the 1st course of bricks in a linear brick pattern using the Super Compact Cobra and a tracking system.

This is part 14 of an on-going series on Decorative Concrete, and is taken from the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics.

 

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Let???s look at the linear carriage. Orient the T pin hole so it is closest to the engraver. The collars prevent the carriage from sliding off the ends of the rail and damaging the bearings. Insert the primary connecting bar into the carriage. Attach the engraver to the primary connecting bar. Lift the connecting bar stabilizer wheels about 1/8th of an inch off the concrete and then tighten the star knob. Install the clamp lock.

Indexing the primary connecting bar to cut the first long cut, insert the T pin and tighten the star knobs. Engrave the first long bed line. After the first line is engraved, remove the T pin, loosen the star knobs, and index to the next hole. Reinsert the T pin and tighten the star knobs. Engrave the next line. Repeat the process until the section of long lines are engraved.

As needed, add connecting bars to extend the reach of the super compact. Secure the connecting bar using the specifically designed connecting bar screws. Tighten the screws snuggly to prevent a loose connection which can cause ugly lines.

The recommended maximum connecting bar extension for straight linear brick patterns is 12 feet. Extending farther than the recommended length can cause bowed lines due to the lag and movement between the engraver and the linear carriage.

Remove the clamp lock and turn the engraver 90 degrees and reattach the primary connecting bar. Check the stroke length for short cuts. Adjust for a four inch cut, then attach the rigid pointer system to the engraver. Index the primary connecting bar to the row of bricks that is furthest away from the linear rail.

To cut the first brick course, first move the engraver to the far right side of the cutting area. Clip on the pointer flag. Align the first row pointer, which is 12 inches from the blade, to the edge of the area and make the first cut.

Move the engraver sideways and align the pointer over the cut line and make the next cut. Repeat until this row is complete.

Purchase the DVD Mastering Concrete Engraving, The Basics to see this series in its entirety.